Synthetic musks are some of the most debated ingredients in the fragrance world, and rightfully so. For decades, “musk” was almost a dirty word in clean beauty circles—synonymous with environmental persistence, bioaccumulation, and questionable health effects. But the truth is far more nuanced.
Today’s musks are not the same as those that raised safety concerns in the past. In this post, we’ll break down the differences between older and newer synthetic musks, explain how to identify safe formulations, and give you the tools to make informed choices about your fragrance.
The History of Synthetic Musks
Musks originally came from animal sources (like the musk deer) before the fragrance industry shifted to synthetic alternatives in the late 19th and 20th centuries. While this was a win for animal welfare, not all synthetic musks were created equal.
Older musks: Nitro musks (e.g., musk ketone) and polycyclic musks (e.g., galaxolide) were widely used for their long-lasting scent. Unfortunately, they were also found to be environmentally persistent and capable of bioaccumulation. Some studies linked them to endocrine disruption and changes in liver enzymes. As a result, many have been banned or restricted in the EU.
Newer musks: Macrocyclic (e.g., ambrettolide) and alicyclic (e.g., helvetolide) musks have a very different profile. They’re more biodegradable, have low bioaccumulation potential, and show no evidence of endocrine disruption at cosmetic use levels.
Older vs. Newer Synthetic Musks: Key Differences
| Characteristic | Older Musks (Nitro & Polycyclic) | Newer Musks (Macrocyclic & Alicyclic) |
|---|---|---|
| Chemical Class | Nitro musks (musk ketone) and polycyclic musks (galaxolide) | Macrocyclic (ambrettolide) and alicyclic (helvetolide) musks |
| Environmental Persistence | High — tend to bioaccumulate and resist degradation | Low — more biodegradable with lower bioaccumulation potential |
| Toxicological Concerns | Linked to endocrine disruption and bioaccumulation in aquatic organisms | Low toxicity; no endocrine disruption at cosmetic use levels |
| Regulatory Status | Several banned/restricted in EU | Approved for use under IFRA and SCCS guidance |
| Odor Profile | Strong, long-lasting | Refined, subtle, skin-like; less environmental impact |
Are All Synthetic Musks Bad?
No. Just like not all natural ingredients are safe, not all synthetics are harmful. The real question is which synthetic musks are used, at what levels, and whether they meet modern safety standards.
According to a toxicologist’s perspective:
“If you’re using well-characterized, non-PBT fragrance molecules at IFRA-compliant levels and formulating with clean, non-sensitizing bases, the cumulative risk remains low—even under layered-use scenarios. Bioaccumulation is primarily a concern with legacy musks, phthalates, and halogenated preservatives—none of which are present here.”
Are Older Musks Still Used Today?
While many nitro musks (like musk xylene) and some polycyclic musks have been banned or heavily restricted in the EU and other regions, they can still appear in fragrance—especially in markets with looser regulations like the U.S., where ingredient disclosure isn’t required and older materials may not be explicitly prohibited.
However, their use is far less common in modern perfumery due to stricter global safety standards, environmental concerns, and the availability of safer alternatives. Most reputable fragrance houses and clean beauty brands have moved away from these legacy musks entirely.
So, how concerned should you be?
- If you’re buying from a transparent brand that publishes a full ingredient list, you can verify the absence of older musks.
- If a brand lists only “fragrance” or “parfum” without specifics—and offers no third-party safety certification—you can’t be certain which musks are used.
- For extra peace of mind, choose products with EWG Verified, Made Safe®, or IFRA-compliant claims that specifically reference modern macrocyclic or alicyclic musks.
How to Tell if Your Perfume Uses Safer Musks
1. Look for Full Ingredient Transparency
Brands committed to full ingredient disclosure will list each fragrance material, not just the vague “fragrance” catch-all. This allows you to see exactly which musks are used.
If you want a real-world example, Layermor Parfum lists every ingredient—including safe, modern musks—so you know exactly what you’re wearing.
2. Check for Third-Party Verification
Certifications like EWG Verified or Made Safe® ensure that musks have passed independent safety screening. IFRA compliance is also key for global fragrance safety standards.
3. Use Ingredient-Scanning Apps
Apps like Yuka, Think Dirty, and EWG Healthy Living can help you quickly assess individual ingredients—though they may not always distinguish between older and newer musks, so cross-check with a brand’s disclosure.
4. Understand the Terminology
If you see ambrettolide, helvetolide, or other macrocyclic/alicyclic musks on an ingredient list, these belong to the newer, safer generation. If you see musk ketone or galaxolide, those are older types worth avoiding.
The clean musks in Layermor Hair Perfume, for example, are selected specifically for biodegradability and a refined, skin-like finish—proof that performance doesn’t have to come at the cost of safety.
Why Newer Musks Are Used in Clean Fragrance
- Longevity: Modern musks help extend scent life without phthalates.
- Scent Profile: They add a soft, skin-like warmth rather than an overpowering note.
- Safety: They’re biodegradable and have undergone extensive safety reviews under SCCS and IFRA guidance.
If you’d like to experience how these musks perform in a clean fragrance layering routine, Layermor Body Oil is designed to be paired with perfume for all-day wear without questionable ingredients.
FAQs About Synthetic Musks
1. Are all synthetic musks harmful?
No, modern macrocyclic and alicyclic musks are considered safe and biodegradable at cosmetic use levels.
2. Why were older musks phased out?
Nitro and polycyclic musks were found to persist in the environment and accumulate in living organisms, prompting restrictions.
3. How can I tell which musks my perfume uses?
Look for full ingredient lists—macrocyclic musks like ambrettolide are the safer, newer type.
4. Are newer synthetic musks natural?
No, but many are lab-created versions of scent molecules found in nature, designed for safety and stability.
5. Do clean perfumes ever use musks?
Yes, many clean brands use safer synthetic musks for their skin-like scent and longevity without relying on older, controversial types.